Chimney problems are hard to judge from the ground, and climbing up for a closer look is not something we recommend. A clear explanation is the safer first step. This page covers what people in Edmonton usually want to know after a search for “chimney flashing services”: what tends to go wrong, what a repair visit involves, what affects the price and how to tell a careful company from a hasty one. It is written to help you understand chimney flashing repair, not to push you into it.
Sometimes yes, often no, and the deciding factor is whether the damage touches the path the smoke takes. A chipped brick on the outside of the stack is not going to change how the fire drafts tonight. A broken flue tile, a liner with gaps, a crown that lets rain pour into the flue or a fan that has stopped running can. When we are asked this on the phone, we usually suggest leaving the fireplace or stove cold until the chimney has been checked. A few quiet evenings cost nothing, and a carbon monoxide alarm near the bedrooms is cheap protection in any home with a fuel-burning appliance.
Bad chimney flashing usually shows up as water stains on the ceiling or walls next to the chimney, damp attic framing or wet insulation around the chimney’s base. Flashing is the metal that seals the joint between the roof and the chimney, and it fails when sealant dries out, fasteners back out, metal rusts or roofing work disturbs it. From the ground, look for metal that has pulled away from the brick, gaps smeared with a thick bead of tar or caulk and missing or lifted shingles around the chimney. Leaks often appear first during heavy, wind-driven rain.
A cricket, also called a saddle, is a small peaked structure built on the uphill side of a chimney so rain and snow split and flow around it instead of piling up against the brick. It is framed, sheathed and covered with metal or roofing, then tied into the flashing. Wide chimneys and chimneys on low-slope roofs benefit most, because water and debris collect behind them. Signs that one is missing include leaves packed behind the chimney and leaks that appear on the uphill side. If you are comparing quotes for “chimney flashing services”, ask whether a cricket is included or recommended.
Chimney flashing is repaired by resealing it when the metal is still sound or by replacing it when it is rusted, bent or installed incorrectly. Resealing means cleaning out failed caulk and applying a new flexible sealant where the counter-flashing meets the brick. Replacement involves lifting the surrounding shingles, fitting new step flashing piece by piece, cutting a groove into a mortar joint for new counter-flashing and sealing it in. Wide chimneys may also get a cricket, a small peaked diverter on the uphill side that steers water around. Sealant alone is a short-term fix when the metal underneath has failed.
A common guideline is to have a chimney inspected once a year, and many homeowners schedule it before the colder months when the fireplace sees more use. Yearly checks catch small problems such as a loosening cap, a new crack in the crown or a worn mortar joint before they let water in. It also makes sense to have the chimney looked at after a major storm, a chimney fire, a roof replacement or any change of insert, stove or appliance. Chimneys that are rarely used still need checking, because weather damages them whether or not you light fires.
Well-installed metal flashing often lasts as long as the roof around it, sometimes longer, while the sealant along the counter flashing usually needs renewing sooner. Lifespan depends on the metal, how it was fastened, sun exposure and whether the chimney moves or settles. Flashing that relies on tar or caulk instead of proper overlaps may start leaking within a few seasons. A check during each yearly chimney inspection, looking for lifted edges and cracked sealant, is the simplest way to stay ahead of it. Small reseals during chimney flashing repair cost far less than repairing a soaked ceiling later.
Preparing for chimney repair mostly means clearing access inside and out. Stop using the fireplace or stove at least a day before so the firebox and flue are cool, and move decorations, screens, tools and furniture away from the hearth. Outside, move vehicles, patio furniture, planters and grills away from the side of the house where ladders will go, and unlock any gates. Let the company know about pets, an alarm system or anything fragile near the chimney. If the job involves the attic or basement, such as tracing a leak or emptying an ash pit, clear a path there too.
Mention what the chimney is made of, what it serves and what you have noticed, because a few details on the phone save a lot of time on the roof. We ask which appliances use the flue, how many stories the house has and how steep the roof is. We ask what you have seen: a stain, debris in the firebox, a stuck handle, a rattling cap, smoke in the room. We ask when it started and whether a roofer or another contractor worked nearby recently. Two quick phone snapshots, one of the chimney top from the yard and one of the problem area inside, often tell us which parts and ladders to bring on the first trip.
The questions that matter most are about cause, scope and surprises, and any capable chimney company can answer them in plain words. Cause: why is this happening, and how do you know? Scope: which parts are included, which materials, and is the chimney top part of the job? Surprises: what happens if rotten framing or a cracked flue tile turns up halfway through? It is also fair to ask who will be on your roof, how long new mortar needs before a fire and how the site will be left. We welcome these questions, because they lead to fewer misunderstandings later.
We are glad to explain the process, the likely timing and what affects the price before you decide anything. Most people find that a few minutes of conversation answers the questions this page could not. Send us a message and we will reply with clear next steps.
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